There is a set 3-course menu at 26€, and à la carte you'd pay a bit more (click to enlarge):
At first glance I knew exactly what I'd order for all three courses, and I think my boyfriend, R., felt the same way. He ordered the foie gras, which came with toast, and I started with canteloupe and jambon de bayonne. Unfortunately the melon wasn't ripe - it was still hard and had little sweetness or flavor, so it was disappointing. We also raised our eyebrows at the garnishings - we both had a sliver of tomato and a wilted speck of parsley atop our appetizers, which inexplicably topped our main dishes as well. I got the filet de lieu jaune avec légumes de printemps. I feel like no matter what the name is in French, when I try to translate it to English I end up with pollack, as is the case here. The fish was delicious, crispy on the top, with a light sauce that flavored the bed of carrots, snow peas, and green peas (which were hard and crunchy - yuck). R. had the Joue de boeuf braisée avec pommes boulangère, which came out piping hot, in a cast iron casserole. This was also great, the beef steaming away in a thick gravy, with sliced potatoes and onions underneath.
The desserts were wonderful. I know, I almost always say that, but I can't help it if it's true (or if I've got an enormous sweet tooth). Pictured on the left is an île flottante, one of my favorite desserts, sitting in a pool of crème anglaise. The last time I had one was exactly one year ago at Aux Lyonnais, so this was long overdue. The île flottante was heavenly: light and fluffy, it melted in my mouth.
I didn't sprinkle it with the powdered pralines that came on the side that came with it because it was so good just plain. I had counseled R. against what was described as Framboises fraîches, crème marscapone (Fresh raspberries & marscapone) because he hates cheese cake or any heavy dairy products. The description did not do justice to the dessert, however, which was beautiful and delicious: topped with a swirly pattern of mango and raspberry sauce, the cream was lighter than I expected, with fresh raspberries hiding at the bottom. The tartness of the mango sauce and the fresh raspberries were excellent with the cream.We had gotten a bottle of Bourgogne Aligoté for 21€, and most of the wines were in that price range. The food was solid, the waiter was hilarious, and we both felt like 26€ was about right for what we got, but I honestly expected more than just "solid" from a bib gourmand. All the other ones we have been to have been excellent and inventive - L'ami Jean, Aux Lyonnais, Le Buisson Ardent, Le Gallopin, to name a few. These restaurants might have had their own setbacks, but the food and the presentation were always beautiful and sometimes surprising (like the Carambar tart I had at L'epi Dupin). The dining room itself was also kind of shabby, with dirty walls and worn upholstry, so I didn't agree with the two "utensils" that Chez Léon received in the Michelin guide. This rates the building, the decor, the location, and the facilities, with two indicating "comfortable", but I would not put Chez Léon in the same category as Le Pamphlet and Le Gallopin, also two-utensiled. While I obviously contest the Michelin ratings Chez Léon has received, it was still decent overall, and again, the waiter was really nice. Not a bad choice if you are nearby, and perhaps even a must if you're a big fan of Inspector Maigret.
Chez Léon
32, rue Legendre
75017 Paris
01 42 27 06 82
M: Villiers
Closed Saturday & Sunday
tags: grub



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