Au Cheval Blanc

Recently had the most amazing, amazing meal I have had in a long time at the Cheval Blanc. I didn't take pictures except for this, but trust me. Five "official" courses, with wine pairings and all the in betweens. Fantastic service, inviting setting, love love loved it. Currently one-starred but I don't see why it can't earn another soon enough. Above is a photo of just one (yes, ONE!) of the amazing desserts that was on our menu. They called this the grand dessert, and each person at the table got this sampling of their sweets. Simply Amazing. They have tons of specials going on now because of a recent change in owner and it is worth the short drive from Strasbourg (or Germany if that be the case).

Oh, and did I mention I'm back in Paris now! Can't wait to write about my first meal back!!!

Au Cheval Blanc
http://www.au-cheval-blanc.fr/
4, rue de Wissembourg
67510 LEMBACH
Tél. : +33 (0)3 88 94 41 86
Reservations essential.

L'atelier d'Grand Pere

R and I had been running around all day, and we needed to stop and breathe before we rushed on to dinner with friends. We first went by l'Epicerie, but as usual it was totally packed, so R suggested this place. Loved it! So cute, great menu, great atmosphere, great happy hour specials, ok service: a keeper for sure.

I got my usual pot of earl grey, while R took advantage of their happy hour special of tartine + 50cl beer for 3.90€. His "flambeur" tartine was true to its name, basically a tarte flambee -- melted cheese, cream, onions, and bacon, served piping hot on a wooden cutting board -- and so good that it was gone by the time my camera was out. They also have afternoon tea specials: for the same price you get your choice of hot beverage and dessert. And not to mention their lunch specials and enormous salads! I can't wait to try this place for lunch. AND it's open on Sundays!

p.s. hilarious. I had asked our waiter for a business card before we headed out, and I noticed him scribbling something on it before he handed it to me. I just now looked at his addendum to the address: "avec de vrais serveurs qui dansent la tecktonik." With true waiters who dance tecktonick. LOLOLOL. Well there ya go, yet another reason to check this place out, and possibly hit on their amazing dancing waiters.

L'atelier d'Grand Pere
http://www.resto-latelierdgrandpere.com/
11 rue Sainte Barbe
67000 Strasbourg
Tel: 03 88 22 24 30
Open 7/7
Sunday-Thursday: 11h - 21h
Friday & Saturday: 11h - 23 h

Selestat

So what is there to see in Selestat, a town between Strasbourg and Colmar?
Well, there was this churchand that church
There's also the Maison du Pain, a museum on the history of bread. We didn't go into the museum, but I did treat myself to one each of these meringues from their adjoining bakery:Mmmmm.
Selestat is also known for its Humanist Library, but we didn't visit it.
Finally, I love these French warning signs, especially the cat one:(Felin Hargneux, mal nourri means Bad-tempered Cat, malnourished)

Le Buerehiesel

Continuing on with our Formule Jeunes adventure, R & I made reservations at the Buerehiesel, a one-starred restaurant smack dab in the middle of Orangerie Park. This restaurant lost its three stars when the father handed it over to the son, but Eric Westermann was awarded his first star in this year's Michelin guide. We didn't know what to expect, and after the Auberge de l'Ill it was hard not to be disappointed. (though to be fair, after the Auberge what wouldn't disappoint?)

Our amuse bouche was a mousse of foie gras. So I'm not a huge fan of foie gras, but this was ok with me since it was more like a delightfully buttery spread. That I can do, especially when I'm hungry!
Next up was the entree, this half-cooked (purposefully), herbed salmon, encircled with arugula and diced tomatoes. The herbs and slow-roasted tomato vinaigrette were fabulous, fabulous enough for me to stomach the cold salmon (again -- just got unlucky with set menu, but hey, I liked the stuff I normally don't so it all worked out).
Our fish course of steamed mullet topped with raw oysters, in a Riesling sauce, arrived next. OK, so the slimy, salty, oysters didn't go over so well. R liked them fine enough though.
Finally we got to the dish I had been waiting for since we received the menu: roasted lamb with rosemary. Only...I like my lamb medium rare! And the waiter had asked, and we had specified this. But by the time we got it, a few pieces were properly cooked but most were brown through and through. This is how I like my lamb. It seem silly for me to be making such a big deal out of this, but is it so wrong to expect things to be properly cooked in a one-star restaurant?
Enough whining, on to dessert. Souffle and grapefruit sorbet. Simple and sweet.
The Mignardaises are almost always my favorite part of the meal -- aren't things always cuter the smaller they are? (does this meet the rules of cuteness?)Here you see the thin cookies on the right, the mini-madeleines and rose marshmallows in the middle, and the sugar, candied orange, and chocolate truffles to the left. I liked the truffles the best, but I also enjoyed the marshmallows.

So. The verdict? Well... When we walked in we immediately knew that things would be different. The decor is very sparse and basic...but not in a stylish faux-zen way. Dinner might not be the best meal to have here either, since you won't be able to appreciate the surrounding gardens. I'm sure during the day the scenery is amazing, as the main dining room is like a conservatory. The staff was kind enough, but the service was badly coordinated. The wine pairings kept arriving halfway through the matching dish; things felt very rushed (I think our meal took 1h30 -- talk about American-paced!!!); the team of waiters and waitresses and hostess and sommelier didn't seem to click. They just weren't on that night.

I can attribute part of my disappointment to the menu -- none of the dishes were my favorite thing to begin with. But even R, the most adventurous and least picky eater I know, wasn't that impressed. And our underwhelming dishes had nothing to do with the service or the mediocre (R's judgment) wines we were served.

68€ for a four-course wine pairing meal didn't make it a total loss, but if I ever go back it would be to try their set weekday lunch instead (3 courses for 35€ -- and they put their entire week's menu online at the beginning of the week in case you want to pick the day/menu you like best).

In fact, I might do just that. I don't feel comfortable completely writing this restaurant off yet because I love the family story behind it, and the magic of the park setting is undeniable. Anyone else want to chime in?

Restaurant Buerehiesel
www.buerehiesel.fr
4, parc de l’Orangerie
67000 STRASBOURG
tél : (+33) 3 88 45 56 65

Auberge de l'Ill

To celebrate the coming of Spring, and to take advantage of the Formule Jeunes promotion while it lasts, R and I made reservations at Auberge de l'Ill, which has had its 3 stars since 1967! Quite the Alsatian establishment.

All of the photos might be a little dark because I didn't use a flash.
We were served this cute platter almost immediately, accompanied by champagne. From top to bottom: herbed mini-madeleines, emmental crisps, smoked salmon puffsNext came this emulsion of boudin noir. I hate boudin noir (just the English term -- blood pudding -- makes me cringe), but I loved this and ate every spoonful.
Next up was this gorgeous martini glass full of marinated scallops layered with an asparagus puree and a blood orange gelee:Our waitress encouraged us to mix the layers, and it was delicious even if the blood orange was a bit tart. We also had our pick of the bread basket, and these amazing fresh butters.You can see the logo of the restaurant carved into the butter -- this level of detail was present everywhere, as all the silverware was similarly monogrammed.
After this we had our fish, a bar sauteed to perfection, accompanied by one lonely maki.R's favorite dish came next. This was a work of art. Pigeon and goose liver were tenderly wrapped in cabbage, all inside a fluffy pastry. The pigeon was wonderful, red and meaty, and of course I loved it when it came in such a cute package! Not to mention the gravy...

Finally, the sweet part of the meal, my favorite. I can't remember the order of all the sweets. I think they might have first brought out these cookies while we waited for the full dessert.and these, which were like really crispy mini beignetsThen came the real dessertA shotglassful of cappucino, a scoop of chicory ice cream, and a layered pastry of pear and dark chocolate. The chicory ice cream, pebbled with chewy bits of chicory, was surprisingly yummy.
A huge platter of chocolates to choose from appeared as soon as we had finished the dessert. (yes, I was in heaven, no I wasn't greedy and didn't take one of each). I tried one of the dark rochers, a truffle, and a praline. All were amazing.

One thing that sets this place apart from all others is the service, which you will notice as soon as you enter. Someone to greet you, someone to take your coat, someone to lead you to your table and pull out your chair for you. Even when I got up in the middle of the meal to head to the ladies' room, the waitress precipitated my moves and was behind me to pull out my chair. A new napkin awaited on each return. Still, however vigilant the staff members were, they didn't hover - they, and their touches, were practically invisible, as I guess all hallmark service is.

Each of the dining rooms had their own feeling. The entrance felt Japanese, as you might see in the details of the name; the middle rooms felt like they came out of a Bond movie set from the 70s, with cheesy glass partitioning and shaggy white carpets; and the last room felt like a ski lodge with its roaring fire, deep wood paneled walls, and couches in the back corner. We were seated in this last room, which had a great view of the stream below, with the willow trees and the cobblestone bridge not to far off.

One thing I've left off is the wine pairings that came with each course. Maybe next time I'll remember. Our entire meal, including wine pairings, sparkling water and coffee, was 90€ per person. Quite a steal for such a fabulous experience.

Auberge de l'Ill
http://www.auberge-de-l-ill.com
2 rue de Collonges au Mont d'Or
68970 ILLHAEUSERN
Tél. 03 89 71 89 00
Fax 03 89 71 82 83

Happy Easter!

At the mall in Strasbourg, there were easter bunnies passing out chocolate eggs: I wonder if the French children were confused that there weren't any bells handing out the chocolates.

And at the easter market in Colmar,there were real bunnies! The easter market itself was adorable, with festive goods and decorated trees. Who knew? More on Colmar to come...

See, even the NYTimes thinks Strasbourg is cool

Just to give you a little perspective on those last posts about Strasbourg, I suggest you check out this article in the New York Times, "At the Crossroads, Between Red Tape and Red Hot" which claims that Strasbourg will become a hoppin' "fun" weekend destination with the arrival of the TGV. I think it is definitely a great weekend trip, if not more, but I'm not sold on their account of Strasbourg nightlife. It is hilarious that they start out by describing the Salamandre, this shitty club that the boyfriend and his friends used to frequent back in the day when he lived just around the corner from it. But maybe it has changed since I was last there, a few years ago.

They do get one thing right, though, with their mention of Chez Yvonne. I didn't go this time, but I have been before, and I still remember that meal like it was yesterday. Incredible. Cosy, warm, with unbelievable hearty portions that are just perfect during the Strasbourg winter. I would almost compare it to the Alsatian version of l'ami jean, which brings me to another NYTimes reference. Last November or December, my boyfriend was eating at l'ami Jean with some colleagues and was seated next to a NYTimes photographer, who apparently took photos of them and their food, and told them to expect to see everything sometime in January. We have been anticipating this article, and so when we finally read "Bistronomy"
last week, the boyfriend was just a tad disappointed not to see his face in the NYTimes. But it's still a good article about that place, and it should definitely convince you to make reservations if you have not yet been there.

tags: strasbourg

l'Ami Schutz

L'ami Schutz, the picture of modesty and restraint, was the Winstub I chose to try out another Formule Jeunes, an annual Alsatian promotion offering special set menu prices for customers under 35. Assuming that participation in this promotion was a sort of stamp of approval from Etoiles d'Alsace, I happily made reservations here. Not comparing it to a starred restaurant, but expecting hearty, satisfying, Alsacian dishes, boy did I strike out with this one. If my post on Au Crocodile qualifies as "food porn" then this post can be compared to the Billy Madison version of food porn (who could forget classics like "Drunk Chicks" and "Women over 80"). Are you ready?

As soon as we were seated we were brought coupes of Crémant, a regional champagne wannabe, and toasts topped with smoked salmon. I started with la salade de cèpes à l'ail aux aiguillettes de pintadeau tièdes. While apparently this was thought out in advance, given its mention on the website, at the time it just seemed like they were trying to get rid of all the leftovers in one plate. Some excellent cepes, hot and saucy, sitting on a bed of not-so-fresh chopped endives and walnuts, surrounded by raw-on-the-inside young guinea fowl. The boyfriend started with a very unphotogenic slice of fois gras, which he enjoyed.

Next comes the main dish. I was so looking forward to having deer again, after falling in love with it at the Crocodile. I knew that this would be no comparison, but I was still very disappointed: the first time in France I have ever had medium-well meat!The side on the right is squash puree, which was delicious in spite of being slightly crunchy on top. In the middle are beets, which I didn't touch, and to the left are spatzle, which were nice and greasy, just the way I like them. The deer was still tender in spite of being cooked a bit more than I would have preferred, but I couldn't stand the deceivious gravy: not the normal gravy I expected, but a poivrade au chocolat et raisins, the chocolate being the most noticable and distracting flavor, and the grapes being, well, the grapes thrown on the plate.

The boyfriend got the fish choucroute, with which he was pleased, and the presentation was beautiful:
Next come the desserts. Aye. The restaurant is not all to blame since I made a dumb mistake in ordering. I read kougelhopf glacé to mean iced kougelhopf (a traditional Alsatian brioche-like pastry) rather than, in fact, vanilla ice cream in the shape of a kougelhopf and drowned in alcohol: From the photo the lake of alcohol in which the ice cream was sitting is not clear; it was everywhere, and even ruined the gavotte off to the side. The boyfriend got the pineapples n'everclear combo, which even he, good Frenchman and vino (same thing, aren't they?), could not finish.
Re-reading this makes it seem like either my boyfriend lucked out or I picked all the misses. Perhaps one meal isn't enough to form a conclusion but I will most definitely not be returning (of course, I will soon be leaving and wouldn't have the chance to return even if I wanted to). We paid 36€ per person for this meal, wine pairings for each course and digestif included, so it could've been worse...but still.

l'Ami Schutz
www.ami-schutz.com
1 Ponts Couverts
67000 Strasbourg
03 88 32 76 98
7/7

tags: grub, strasbourg

l'epicerie

L'épicerie is the sort of adorable, cosy cafe you turn to when you need to warm up, want to meet friends, or just need a quick bite to eat. Tucked in a prime location, on a small road between the main shopping areas (Galeries Lafayette, Place Kleber) and the Cathedral, it took three tries on three separate occasions before I was able to get a table and experience the goodness for myself.

And my, what goodness. I couldn't contain my shock when the waitress brought out this huge bowl of hot chocolate; I had been expecting the usual dainty cafe portions. Would it surprise you to learn that I couldn't finish it all? Unfortunately I had arrived too early to be hungry and have an excuse to try one of their tartines, though the goat cheese one was calling to me.

But not to worry. I returned a few days later with the boyfriend, and while it was still too early for me to even think about food, he ordered two tartines. He started (!) with the tartiflette tartine, which deserves an exclamation of quelle violence, especially before noon:Cheese, pototoes, and lardons smothering the bread...I would just go for the real thing instead of the delusion that I'm eating the lighter "sandwich" version.
His next tartine more closely resembled an actual sandwich, with a spread of peppered rillettes:But I've been spoiled by the rillettes from the Grand Epicerie and these just couldn't compare.

The extensive listing of tartines:And the wines to go with:
The only thing annoying about this place is its own success: it is always packed. It becomes difficult to sit and quietly enjoy your drink or food when all floor space is occupied by hovering, impatient vultures vying for seats.

L'épicerie
6 rue du vieux seigle
67000 Strasbourg
03 88 32 52 41


tags: grub

Au Crocodile

On a side street off of one of the main squares, Place Kleber, lies the only two-starred restaurant in Strasbourg proper, Au Crocodile. Last night we had reservations there and we had an amazing time. And thank your lucky stars, because I have pictures of everything we ate except the first amuse-bouche.*

We were first served the obligatory palate cleanser, which in my case was more of a gag inducer because I wasn't ready for the extremely cold temperature: it was a mint and lemon sorbet that had been flash freezed with liquid nitrogen! Ouch! And the quantity, a large dollop, was fixed on the spoon so I didn't have a chance to test the waters before downing it. I was still recovering when we were served our first amuse-bouche, the tiniest gamba brochette standing in a dish of minced cucumbers, peppers, and olive oil, and leaning against a speck of endive. Given the tiny proportions I felt like I was a child again, having my own make believe tea party with my miniature tea set. Don't take this as a complaint: it was delicious.

We next had squash soup topped with a squash tuile:Mmmm...squash soup is one of my favorite winter dishes, and the lardons hidden at the bottom were a great addition. We had a glass of champagne to accompany all of these amuse-bouches.

Next up was the foie d'oie, lightly cooked and served with a mango chutney and a glass of Pinot Gris Vendages tardives.I can't stand the taste of any type of fois so I couldn't really appreciate it. But with the appropriate proportions of toast and mango chutney, I was able to get a few bites in before turning it over to the boyfriend. The topping you see is two strands of chives balanced on the star anise.

Afterwards came one of my favorite foods, scallops, served on a bed of risotto and accompanied with a glass of Riesling. So good. There were tons of little veggies in the risotto, and I think I even tasted a pineapple. The red sauce around the plate is massala.

Then bambi, served with Domaine de la Chaume.This was the first time I have ever eaten deer, and it was so good. I know I suck - I just say that everything is good. But how can I explain it? So tender, so rich, with the slightest hint of orange in the wine sauce, it was better than any steak you could imagine. I never eat red meat, but I would order it again without hesitation (though one pitfall of trying out a new food at a starred restaurant is that any following experiences probably won't compare). The fromage blanc dumpling off to the right was yummy (I'm a sucker for dumplings), but I didn't eat much of the pear because I wanted to savor every bite of the deer.

And finally we have arrived at dessert. We first got a preview of things to come with this delicately layered mousse.Rasberry puree on top, whipped fromage blanc in the middle, and an incredibly bitter cherry puree at the bottom that I couldn't touch it made my mouth pucker so. We had a gorgeous glass of Gewurztraminer Vendages Tardives to accompany all our desserts. I'm no good at wines: I should have my boyfriend do the commentary on them to provide you with actual insight. This being said, Gewurztraminer is one of my favorite wines and this was probably one of the best glasses I have ever tasted. So sweet, so fresh, you couldn't even taste the alcohol.

Then came the real dessert, a layered black and white chocolate mousse served with pistachio ice cream and a small chocolate and raspberry.This was the weakest dish of the entire evening. Nothing seemed to go together, and nothing was even that great. Disappointing. I didn't like the white chocolate mousse so I had to dig out as much chocolate mousse as I could before the top layer caved in (I know, elegant). And you see that green sauce framing the plate? Don't be fooled and assume it was mint, like I did. It is tarragon! Maybe someone can explain this randomness to me.

Next came this lovely platter, as delicious as cute.On the left were macaroons. I don't like macaroons, even though I have tried them at all the must-dos (must-tastes?) in Paris. But these were a little bit different because the filling was more creamy and buttery than ones I have tasted before. Not enough to make me suddenly like macaroons, but enough for me to finish one. Next to the macaroons was a chocolate bowl filled with peach puree. Simple and delicious: perfection. Second from the right was what looked like a green millefeuille. I really had no room in my stomach, but the boyfriend refused to try it for me, and I couldn't let something like that just sit there, so I had to take a bite. (Yes, that's it: I was compelled.) It was some type of pear and almond pastry. I didn't finish it. And on the far right is the straightforward crowd-pleaser, raspberry tart.

And our final dessert was this chocolate assortment, accompanied with a glass of kirsch.
And now here comes the kicker, where your mouth is guaranteed to drop open when I tell you how much we paid for this technically 4-course dinner with wine pairings and including water, coffee, and the digestif. 86€ per person. What a deal, thanks to the association Etoiles d'Alsace and their annual promotion, La Formule Jeunes. November through April, there are five two or three-starred restaurants in the region that offer similar everything-included 86€ menus if you are under 35. The only catch is that you have to tell them you want it when you make the reservation, and certain restaurants might have limits, like no Saturday nights. The same association has two other categories of restaurants with lower price points, and if you are coming to Alsace soon I highly recommend you check out the website for ideas. All of the other menus are available on Au Crocodile's website if you want to get an idea of the "normal" prices, which would start at roughly double of what we paid.

Before boring you even further I must mention the matriarch, Monique Jung, a petite woman in a blaring red 80s power suit who made the rounds throughout dinner. We could see her bobbing through the main dining room, visible by her updo from almost any point in the restaurant. What a character. I must almost mention the decor, which was so kitsch it made me cringe. Strands of white feathers hanging from the lights, sparkly and white everywhere - it seems like the wonderland that would result if my 8-year-old cousin was in charge. But this was still an amazing experience that I will never forget. And I have about a decade left to take advantage of the Formule Jeunes, so you know I'll be returning!

Au Crocodile
10, rue de l'Outre
67000 Strasbourg
03 88 32 13 02
www.au-crocodile.com

Reservations required.

*Sorry if the pictures are dark - no flash because I didn't want to annoy everyone.

tags: grub