Au Cheval Blanc

Recently had the most amazing, amazing meal I have had in a long time at the Cheval Blanc. I didn't take pictures except for this, but trust me. Five "official" courses, with wine pairings and all the in betweens. Fantastic service, inviting setting, love love loved it. Currently one-starred but I don't see why it can't earn another soon enough. Above is a photo of just one (yes, ONE!) of the amazing desserts that was on our menu. They called this the grand dessert, and each person at the table got this sampling of their sweets. Simply Amazing. They have tons of specials going on now because of a recent change in owner and it is worth the short drive from Strasbourg (or Germany if that be the case).

Oh, and did I mention I'm back in Paris now! Can't wait to write about my first meal back!!!

Au Cheval Blanc
http://www.au-cheval-blanc.fr/
4, rue de Wissembourg
67510 LEMBACH
Tél. : +33 (0)3 88 94 41 86
Reservations essential.

Le Buerehiesel

Continuing on with our Formule Jeunes adventure, R & I made reservations at the Buerehiesel, a one-starred restaurant smack dab in the middle of Orangerie Park. This restaurant lost its three stars when the father handed it over to the son, but Eric Westermann was awarded his first star in this year's Michelin guide. We didn't know what to expect, and after the Auberge de l'Ill it was hard not to be disappointed. (though to be fair, after the Auberge what wouldn't disappoint?)

Our amuse bouche was a mousse of foie gras. So I'm not a huge fan of foie gras, but this was ok with me since it was more like a delightfully buttery spread. That I can do, especially when I'm hungry!
Next up was the entree, this half-cooked (purposefully), herbed salmon, encircled with arugula and diced tomatoes. The herbs and slow-roasted tomato vinaigrette were fabulous, fabulous enough for me to stomach the cold salmon (again -- just got unlucky with set menu, but hey, I liked the stuff I normally don't so it all worked out).
Our fish course of steamed mullet topped with raw oysters, in a Riesling sauce, arrived next. OK, so the slimy, salty, oysters didn't go over so well. R liked them fine enough though.
Finally we got to the dish I had been waiting for since we received the menu: roasted lamb with rosemary. Only...I like my lamb medium rare! And the waiter had asked, and we had specified this. But by the time we got it, a few pieces were properly cooked but most were brown through and through. This is how I like my lamb. It seem silly for me to be making such a big deal out of this, but is it so wrong to expect things to be properly cooked in a one-star restaurant?
Enough whining, on to dessert. Souffle and grapefruit sorbet. Simple and sweet.
The Mignardaises are almost always my favorite part of the meal -- aren't things always cuter the smaller they are? (does this meet the rules of cuteness?)Here you see the thin cookies on the right, the mini-madeleines and rose marshmallows in the middle, and the sugar, candied orange, and chocolate truffles to the left. I liked the truffles the best, but I also enjoyed the marshmallows.

So. The verdict? Well... When we walked in we immediately knew that things would be different. The decor is very sparse and basic...but not in a stylish faux-zen way. Dinner might not be the best meal to have here either, since you won't be able to appreciate the surrounding gardens. I'm sure during the day the scenery is amazing, as the main dining room is like a conservatory. The staff was kind enough, but the service was badly coordinated. The wine pairings kept arriving halfway through the matching dish; things felt very rushed (I think our meal took 1h30 -- talk about American-paced!!!); the team of waiters and waitresses and hostess and sommelier didn't seem to click. They just weren't on that night.

I can attribute part of my disappointment to the menu -- none of the dishes were my favorite thing to begin with. But even R, the most adventurous and least picky eater I know, wasn't that impressed. And our underwhelming dishes had nothing to do with the service or the mediocre (R's judgment) wines we were served.

68€ for a four-course wine pairing meal didn't make it a total loss, but if I ever go back it would be to try their set weekday lunch instead (3 courses for 35€ -- and they put their entire week's menu online at the beginning of the week in case you want to pick the day/menu you like best).

In fact, I might do just that. I don't feel comfortable completely writing this restaurant off yet because I love the family story behind it, and the magic of the park setting is undeniable. Anyone else want to chime in?

Restaurant Buerehiesel
www.buerehiesel.fr
4, parc de l’Orangerie
67000 STRASBOURG
tél : (+33) 3 88 45 56 65

Auberge de l'Ill

To celebrate the coming of Spring, and to take advantage of the Formule Jeunes promotion while it lasts, R and I made reservations at Auberge de l'Ill, which has had its 3 stars since 1967! Quite the Alsatian establishment.

All of the photos might be a little dark because I didn't use a flash.
We were served this cute platter almost immediately, accompanied by champagne. From top to bottom: herbed mini-madeleines, emmental crisps, smoked salmon puffsNext came this emulsion of boudin noir. I hate boudin noir (just the English term -- blood pudding -- makes me cringe), but I loved this and ate every spoonful.
Next up was this gorgeous martini glass full of marinated scallops layered with an asparagus puree and a blood orange gelee:Our waitress encouraged us to mix the layers, and it was delicious even if the blood orange was a bit tart. We also had our pick of the bread basket, and these amazing fresh butters.You can see the logo of the restaurant carved into the butter -- this level of detail was present everywhere, as all the silverware was similarly monogrammed.
After this we had our fish, a bar sauteed to perfection, accompanied by one lonely maki.R's favorite dish came next. This was a work of art. Pigeon and goose liver were tenderly wrapped in cabbage, all inside a fluffy pastry. The pigeon was wonderful, red and meaty, and of course I loved it when it came in such a cute package! Not to mention the gravy...

Finally, the sweet part of the meal, my favorite. I can't remember the order of all the sweets. I think they might have first brought out these cookies while we waited for the full dessert.and these, which were like really crispy mini beignetsThen came the real dessertA shotglassful of cappucino, a scoop of chicory ice cream, and a layered pastry of pear and dark chocolate. The chicory ice cream, pebbled with chewy bits of chicory, was surprisingly yummy.
A huge platter of chocolates to choose from appeared as soon as we had finished the dessert. (yes, I was in heaven, no I wasn't greedy and didn't take one of each). I tried one of the dark rochers, a truffle, and a praline. All were amazing.

One thing that sets this place apart from all others is the service, which you will notice as soon as you enter. Someone to greet you, someone to take your coat, someone to lead you to your table and pull out your chair for you. Even when I got up in the middle of the meal to head to the ladies' room, the waitress precipitated my moves and was behind me to pull out my chair. A new napkin awaited on each return. Still, however vigilant the staff members were, they didn't hover - they, and their touches, were practically invisible, as I guess all hallmark service is.

Each of the dining rooms had their own feeling. The entrance felt Japanese, as you might see in the details of the name; the middle rooms felt like they came out of a Bond movie set from the 70s, with cheesy glass partitioning and shaggy white carpets; and the last room felt like a ski lodge with its roaring fire, deep wood paneled walls, and couches in the back corner. We were seated in this last room, which had a great view of the stream below, with the willow trees and the cobblestone bridge not to far off.

One thing I've left off is the wine pairings that came with each course. Maybe next time I'll remember. Our entire meal, including wine pairings, sparkling water and coffee, was 90€ per person. Quite a steal for such a fabulous experience.

Auberge de l'Ill
http://www.auberge-de-l-ill.com
2 rue de Collonges au Mont d'Or
68970 ILLHAEUSERN
Tél. 03 89 71 89 00
Fax 03 89 71 82 83

Restaurant Chez Marie

One thing I've noticed about restaurants in Brussels is the large disparity in lunch and dinner prices. Case in point: Marie, a one-star restaurant in the Ixelles neighborhood. Their 4-course dinner menu is 56€, but their 2-course lunch menu is only 17€. Can you guess which one I'm going to blog about?

It goes without saying that the 17€ lunch menu is a steal. Luckily for me, on the day we went, both the appetizer and the main dish were dishes I would have probably picked anyway. We started with the Brandade de Morue, which was topped with a tomato puree and encircled by an herbed olive oil sauce. I've only had this dish once before, at l'ami jean, and this one was much better because it managed to capture the flavor of the cod without being too salty or fishy. I finished every bite.

The main dish was dorade, served with mashed potatoes, carrots, and fresh pear slivers, and a shellfish-based sauce:
The fish was excellent, the mashed potatoes were excellent, the carrots were great, the fresh pear was a strange touch, and I didn't really like the sauce. But that doesn't mean much - I don't like lobster bisque and it reminded me of that; the boyfriend, however, loved it, and sopped up every drop.

Though dessert wasn't included in the menu, I told the boyfriend that we would split a dessert. I chose the Meringue, with vanilla ice cream and served in a pool of warmed chocolate. Doesn't it look like it could be a cartoon character?Of course, sharing meant that I ate about half, and the boyfriend had a few tiny teaspoons of the chocolate. The chocolate was awesome, and reminded me of Angelina's. I didn't even touch the meringue, but the waitress was so sweet and packaged it up for me to take home, and I am nibbling on it now as I write this. Doggie bags - who would've thought they existed, just an hour away from Paris?!

We had started with an excellent aperitif, the house version of a kir which was called something like a buguy (I have googled in vain and can't get the name right - anybody want to fill it in for me?), and shared a 1/2 bottle of wine (21€). The wine list is impressive - at least 4 pages long, in 10 pt font, and most bottles run in the 30 - 50€ range. They also have quite a selection of wines by the glass. As far as service, the two waitresses we had were sweet, and they adjusted the speed of the meal to the customers: while there were definitely some business lunches going on, we were one of the first tables to arrive and the next-to-last to leave.

Though the exterior is unassuming, the interior is very cozy. The boyfriend and I each had different impressions, facing opposite sides of the room. The left side is all dark wood paneling, with rich details in purple and gold, and reminds me more of a coffee house or lounge. The right side of the restaurant is covered in gilded mirrors and framed black and white photos, and gives it more of a brasserie feel.

Either way, we both loved our meal and we definitely got our money's worth. Damn it feels good to be back in Europe.

The full menu (click to enlarge):

Restaurant chez Marie
Rue Alphonse De Witte 40
1050 Brussels
Belgium
Tel: 02 644 30 31
Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday, and Monday

tags: grub

Au Crocodile

On a side street off of one of the main squares, Place Kleber, lies the only two-starred restaurant in Strasbourg proper, Au Crocodile. Last night we had reservations there and we had an amazing time. And thank your lucky stars, because I have pictures of everything we ate except the first amuse-bouche.*

We were first served the obligatory palate cleanser, which in my case was more of a gag inducer because I wasn't ready for the extremely cold temperature: it was a mint and lemon sorbet that had been flash freezed with liquid nitrogen! Ouch! And the quantity, a large dollop, was fixed on the spoon so I didn't have a chance to test the waters before downing it. I was still recovering when we were served our first amuse-bouche, the tiniest gamba brochette standing in a dish of minced cucumbers, peppers, and olive oil, and leaning against a speck of endive. Given the tiny proportions I felt like I was a child again, having my own make believe tea party with my miniature tea set. Don't take this as a complaint: it was delicious.

We next had squash soup topped with a squash tuile:Mmmm...squash soup is one of my favorite winter dishes, and the lardons hidden at the bottom were a great addition. We had a glass of champagne to accompany all of these amuse-bouches.

Next up was the foie d'oie, lightly cooked and served with a mango chutney and a glass of Pinot Gris Vendages tardives.I can't stand the taste of any type of fois so I couldn't really appreciate it. But with the appropriate proportions of toast and mango chutney, I was able to get a few bites in before turning it over to the boyfriend. The topping you see is two strands of chives balanced on the star anise.

Afterwards came one of my favorite foods, scallops, served on a bed of risotto and accompanied with a glass of Riesling. So good. There were tons of little veggies in the risotto, and I think I even tasted a pineapple. The red sauce around the plate is massala.

Then bambi, served with Domaine de la Chaume.This was the first time I have ever eaten deer, and it was so good. I know I suck - I just say that everything is good. But how can I explain it? So tender, so rich, with the slightest hint of orange in the wine sauce, it was better than any steak you could imagine. I never eat red meat, but I would order it again without hesitation (though one pitfall of trying out a new food at a starred restaurant is that any following experiences probably won't compare). The fromage blanc dumpling off to the right was yummy (I'm a sucker for dumplings), but I didn't eat much of the pear because I wanted to savor every bite of the deer.

And finally we have arrived at dessert. We first got a preview of things to come with this delicately layered mousse.Rasberry puree on top, whipped fromage blanc in the middle, and an incredibly bitter cherry puree at the bottom that I couldn't touch it made my mouth pucker so. We had a gorgeous glass of Gewurztraminer Vendages Tardives to accompany all our desserts. I'm no good at wines: I should have my boyfriend do the commentary on them to provide you with actual insight. This being said, Gewurztraminer is one of my favorite wines and this was probably one of the best glasses I have ever tasted. So sweet, so fresh, you couldn't even taste the alcohol.

Then came the real dessert, a layered black and white chocolate mousse served with pistachio ice cream and a small chocolate and raspberry.This was the weakest dish of the entire evening. Nothing seemed to go together, and nothing was even that great. Disappointing. I didn't like the white chocolate mousse so I had to dig out as much chocolate mousse as I could before the top layer caved in (I know, elegant). And you see that green sauce framing the plate? Don't be fooled and assume it was mint, like I did. It is tarragon! Maybe someone can explain this randomness to me.

Next came this lovely platter, as delicious as cute.On the left were macaroons. I don't like macaroons, even though I have tried them at all the must-dos (must-tastes?) in Paris. But these were a little bit different because the filling was more creamy and buttery than ones I have tasted before. Not enough to make me suddenly like macaroons, but enough for me to finish one. Next to the macaroons was a chocolate bowl filled with peach puree. Simple and delicious: perfection. Second from the right was what looked like a green millefeuille. I really had no room in my stomach, but the boyfriend refused to try it for me, and I couldn't let something like that just sit there, so I had to take a bite. (Yes, that's it: I was compelled.) It was some type of pear and almond pastry. I didn't finish it. And on the far right is the straightforward crowd-pleaser, raspberry tart.

And our final dessert was this chocolate assortment, accompanied with a glass of kirsch.
And now here comes the kicker, where your mouth is guaranteed to drop open when I tell you how much we paid for this technically 4-course dinner with wine pairings and including water, coffee, and the digestif. 86€ per person. What a deal, thanks to the association Etoiles d'Alsace and their annual promotion, La Formule Jeunes. November through April, there are five two or three-starred restaurants in the region that offer similar everything-included 86€ menus if you are under 35. The only catch is that you have to tell them you want it when you make the reservation, and certain restaurants might have limits, like no Saturday nights. The same association has two other categories of restaurants with lower price points, and if you are coming to Alsace soon I highly recommend you check out the website for ideas. All of the other menus are available on Au Crocodile's website if you want to get an idea of the "normal" prices, which would start at roughly double of what we paid.

Before boring you even further I must mention the matriarch, Monique Jung, a petite woman in a blaring red 80s power suit who made the rounds throughout dinner. We could see her bobbing through the main dining room, visible by her updo from almost any point in the restaurant. What a character. I must almost mention the decor, which was so kitsch it made me cringe. Strands of white feathers hanging from the lights, sparkly and white everywhere - it seems like the wonderland that would result if my 8-year-old cousin was in charge. But this was still an amazing experience that I will never forget. And I have about a decade left to take advantage of the Formule Jeunes, so you know I'll be returning!

Au Crocodile
10, rue de l'Outre
67000 Strasbourg
03 88 32 13 02
www.au-crocodile.com

Reservations required.

*Sorry if the pictures are dark - no flash because I didn't want to annoy everyone.

tags: grub

How do you get a table at L'atelier?

Friends are coming in town next week, and while I have a lineup of old favorites (l'epi dupin, le gallopin) and new ones to try (pré verre, le petit vatel), I was wondering if anyone out there could fill me in on L'Atelier by Joel Robuchon. It looks fabulous, and I would be delighted to try the tasting menu, but what the heck do you have to do to eat there? NO RESERVATIONS and I can't see the French lining up in the lobby (or being handed the blinking buzzer things we have back in the states). So if anyone has had the chance to eat there, or has any anecdotes on how to get a table, please please please leave a comment. I won't go on the weekend, and I'll try to get there early (even though I'll feel like my grandparents :/), but other than that, any tips?
Thanks! Oh, and other restaurant suggestions are welcome ;)

tags: grub

Senderens

Oh yes. This week I had the glorious pleasure of dining at Senderens, the well-received (and recently 2-starred!) restaurant at la Madeleine. Senederens has received a lot of press because of the chef's unusual makeover - Jancis Robinson provides a great write-up of it here - and I have read numerous articles about it in the NYTimes, Le Monde, and the Wall Street Journal to name a few.

So you can only imagine my anticipation. As soon as we were seated, we were brought flutes of champagne and served sea urchin risotto - served in the prickly shell! Everyone in our group was awed by the presentation, and I was happily surprised by the sea urchin itself, enough so to order the asparagus and sea urchin as my appetizer. It was the first time I have eaten urchin, and some might be turned off by the sliminess of it, but I enjoyed the rich flavor that went well with the asparagus. Others appetizers on the table were the smoked salmon, which was cooked about 1 mm from the outside but yet still smoked on the inside - we marveled at how they must have done that; the open vegetable ravioli - delicious; and something made with homard (sorry, fuzzy on the details).

For my main dish I went with my usual favorite - scallops. These were served in a coconut soup that reminded me of thai dishes I have had before, skewered with ginger, zucchini and miniscule snails. The scallops were huge! I thought that the thai broth was a bit overpowering for scallops, but this type of fusion was typical of the menu. Other plates at the table were the redsnapper - very simple presentation and even a bit scant on the portions; the lamb, which looked beautiful; the vol au vent, which came in two sections - the plate, with an empty square pastry bowl and two lobster (or maybe homard) heads next to it, and the pitcher of the cream, mushroom & calves' sweetbread mixture which the waiter gracefully poured into the bowl - lovely presentation.

For dessert, I finally had a millefeuille! It was the first time that I have ever had one, and it is a shame that I had my first one at Senderens because I am sure no millefeuille will ever compare. A millefeuille is a pastry made of layers of pastry dough and cream; the ones in bakeries are usually rectangular and the layers are indistinguishable, with thick custard in between. The one I had at Senderens was nothing like your typical Millefeuille - it was quite simply perfection. The layers were very distinct - crispy, caramel-y, pastry - with layers of a fluffy light vanilla cream that melted in my mouth. This is the dessert to get if you go there. The soup of exotic fruits was beautiful, and there was also a chocolate dessert (I think it was called a coulant) that was a bit disappointing for the person who ordered it because it ended up being basically a thin layer of warmed chocolate. It was topped with orange zest and I believe that there was also cognac involved, but I think it was a letdown in comparison with the other desserts. If you're a chocoholic, however, this is the way to go.

After dessert we were brought out little platters with a chocolate truffle (sprinkled with coffee), a macaroon, and a tuile. A perfect ending.

I can't get away with writing a post about Senderens without mentioning the decor. I never went when it was Lucas Carton, so I cannot compare (not that such a comparison is even necessary). However, it seems like they kept the original art nouveau wooden inlays and light fixtures, while going for ultra-modern everywhere else. All of the seating is done in a silver vinyl-like upholstry, the dining room is lined with fiberoptic panels that change colors (lilac to gray to orange to aquamarine, etc) as you dine, and even some tables are lighted (a constant green) with the same flower design as on the panels. The ceiling is the light fixture itself - a panel that provided a dim white-grey light when we were there, but whenever I pass it in the afternoon it is red. I hated the entrance area - when viewed from inside of the restaurant it reminds me of when you board an airplane, because of the sloping grey panels and the curtain between the door and the dining room. I'm not sure if the combination works, but it's an interesting contrast to the ever-present Madeleine in the background.

All in all, as you can tell, I loved my experience here. It goes without saying that the service was excellent. Also of note is that there is no set menu, and that there are suggested drink pairings with each dish. Don't even think of going without a reservation!

Senderens
9 Place de la Madeleine
75008 Paris
01 42 65 22 90

EDIT: p.s. Hey, I went back a month later. Read about my second visit here. There's even a photo of the millefeuille!

tags: grub